$100 Room Challenge Guest Bedroom Walls & Headboard Part 3
DIY is ugly until it isn't
It’s week 3 and the guest bedroom has drastically changed with new paint, wall trim and a DIY queen sized headboard. With only a hundred bucks (paid for by our change jar) I took the challenge to create a farm style guest bedroom.
Before I tell you all about my two days elbow deep in paint and caulk, grab a cup of coffee or a toddy, a snack and get comfortable. This one may take awhile.
Just in case you missed the hubbub of what the $100 Room Challenge is, you have 4 weeks and a hundred dollars to change a room or space (for more details click here). I chose my daughter’s room; as of, two years ago she flew from our nest.
Week 1 was all about showing you the before pictures, setting goals and coming up with a plan which you can check out here. I originally wanted to add board and batten but quickly realized it just wasn't in the budget. Week 2 was spent taking a cluttered graffiti walled closet and turning it into an extension of the bedroom. See how I was able to make my daughter’s grafitti, who ambersonrsewell on Instagram said, "She’s a Basquiat in the making! That closet is full of modern art!"
Now to get down and dirty with all the details. I've divided this post into 3 sections: the wall trim, faux shiplap accent under window, and the DIY queen headboard.
How to add wood boarder to boring walls
Here’s what the room looked like before I added white paint to almost all the walls.
Yeah, I wish I could have moved the bed from the room, but it's heavy and bulky for one person to move. This DIY was a solo project so ya got work with what ya got, right?
Some people don’t like to paint. Hubby being one of them. He actually can’t stand it. Me? I actually enjoy this tedious process. It’s therapeutic. New paint offers a clean slate or new chapter. I also know how drastic this simple process has on a room. I was happy!
I began by taping off the accent wall. This would mark where I would install my wood trim as well as make it easier to paint the lower half. Where you want your trim to be placed is purely up to you. I happened to go with the same area I had, once upon a time, painted circles and stripes (don't ask) and these lines were still apparent if you looked close.
Once that was done I grabbed my friend, the paint brush, and got to work. I painted all of the areas a roller can’t reach. The brush I used was a 2 1/2 inch Glide paint brush for around the windows, outlets, and edges This type of brus tends to hold more paint and is easier to cut in for straight lines. I highly recommend spending a little extra cash on a good paint brush. The paint goes on smoother and you don’t get those nasty shedding bristles.
With the painting done I then took one of the 1x4x8 furring strips and with a level, held it along the bottom edge of the tape. Using a pencil, I marked a line below the board and then removed the tape.
If your walls are the same color as your boards AND you are adding simple trim like I did, then it’s no biggie to paint the boards after they have been attached. BUT if you have a different wall color from your trim board, you’re going to want to prime and paint before installing. That’s what I did along the two-toned wall.
Now you're ready to begin installing the 4” boards.
This is where it got tricky. One set of hands trying to hold the board, a level, hammer, and 2” finishing nails was not fun. Something else not fun...finding the studs. Not those kind of studs (wink, wink). One purchase item I wish I had paid for was a stud finder. I tried the ol’ knock and listen trick. Supposedly you can hear the difference. All I got was sore knuckles. My other strategy was to put the first nail along the same line as an electrical outlet. I know these are attached to a stud. You just have to figure out what side.
HUGE lesson...those wiley studs. I thought I heard them about every 16” but I think it was more like every 12”. Hard to tell with my manufactured home AND that's what you get when you are too cheap to buy a stud finder for less than $10. Get ya a stud finder!
Once the first board was up, I pretty much measured from there and cut each piece with a miter saw. You can also use a circular saw if you don’t have the first one.
Back and forth this went and was going pretty smoothly until the area behind the door. I knew the bookshelf was going to go back there. And I knew I didn’t want it extending past the wall it was against. Already the floor trim made it so it didn’t fit snug. I debated on whether or not to even put any furring strips here.
ADD a Picture of trim to bookcase
I decided to measure the depth of the bookcase and then cut a board to fit to the front of the case. But, I forgot I did this; so when I went to attach the board, I thought I had made a mistake and cut another piece to fit the entire length. What!? It was only afterwards I realized my mistake and took the darn thing down to replace it with my original cut. Grrr.
The other big snafu was the teeny-tiny area between the door and its adjoining wall. Measured, cut, and, realized my measurement was wrong so back out I went to trim it down. I thought I was being super smart by using hard-as-nails (a glue) rather than a couple of nails to attach to the space. It wasn’t until I placed the top trim board that I realized my error. Totally made a another mistake.
Now I don’t know what to do to fix it so I decided to ignore it hope no one looks behind the door to this teeny-tiny area. Ugh.
With the 4” trim boards up, it was now ready for the top piece. I basically measured and cut the same way I did with the 4” furring strips. To attach was a little trickier. I used 2” finishing nails. This is where I discovered my error with the good ol’ knock and listen.
I was moving right along until I ran into a) the top board wasn't straight (be sure to carefully inspect each piece before you purchase). I kept pounding nail hoping it would straiten the boare. It didn't of course. B) when the anchor board is not attached to a stud and I'm pounding away, I soon realized what was once level, is now wonky. Lesson here...GET A STUD FINDER!
Some of the nails did not want to go in straight...especially the warped boards so I decided to attach with a screw. Sigh. It's late and I want to have the boards up in day one so I cut a corner. I didn't use a drill to first create the hole, hence I split the wood. Don't do that.
Stay with me. I realize this looks like a big fat failure but really it turned out amazing! Trust me. The reveal will blow your mind.
As you can see I did not cut outside or inside corners for a couple of reasons. 1) Time. I only had 2 days to give the walls a makeover and finish my DIY headboard. 2) I am clearly not a wood worker. What I am is a work in progress.
Be sure to use wood filler for the nail/screw entry points. I also used the wood filler for the cracks and other imperfections. I followed this with latex caulk along all of the seams...except for the underside because I ran out. You do want a wet cloth or sponge because as you smooth out the lines, your fingers will get goopy. Remember--elbows in paint and caulk?
Prime and paint and your wood trim boarder is done!
Next stage the faux shiplap wall accent.
How to create a faux shiplap wall accent
This didn't take too long since I had already used this technique before. I had leftover Traffic Master laminate flooring so that's what I used to add a faux shiplap accent on the wall beneath the bedroom window.
I measured the space and factored in the trim around the "shiplap". You can see the full steps by clicking here.
Final step was to finish up the queen headboard I had started the week before.
How to make your own queen headboard with a door and Allure flooring
You still with me? Grab another cup of coffee...or whatever. We are on the last leg of this two day marathon. The DIY headboard...
I made this from a hollow door, Allure flooring, and the remaining furring strips...
Then when it was all done, thought That's a lot of white? Where's the headboard?
So after this post was published, went back and got to work which you can check out the full how-to post here.
And that wraps up 2 days, aprx. 22 hours, $100 Room Challenge: Week 3!
1x2x8 Furring strips: 7 x 1.32=9.24
1x4x8 Furring boards: 7 x 3.92= 27.41
Latex all purpose caulk: 2 x 2.28 = z4.56
Wood filler: $5.00
Materials on hand:
2” finishing nails
1 gallon white paint
Brushes and roller
Hard as Nails adhesive
Traffic Master laminate flooring
220 Sandpaper (used to smooth out the wood filler)
2 x 4 scrap wood
Subtotal for this project: $43.21
Next Wednesday is all about the reveal so be sure to watch out for that.
Now that you're comfy, check out these other great $100 Room Challengers'!